bicycle · cape, raincape, duxback, poncho · carradice · sewing · Uncategorized

Sunbrella rain cape #2

After 2 years and a lot of use, the original Sunbrella plus rain cape started to leak in the areas that see the most abrasion, like the handlebar area and where my arms and hands are. While it remained a protective cape, it didn’t shed water as readily and I could feel and see some water seepage during heavy rains.

Fabric guard 303 is what Sunbrella recommends to renew water repellency. It really works. Water practically jumps off the fabric after application. It’s easy to spray on from the pump sprayer. To apply it you need to have a sunny warm day to do it, at least in the 70s. First wash the fabric (I just used ivory dishwashing soap) and let it dry. Then pump spray it on. Takes a minute. Stand downwind of the strong fumes. It dries quickly and there is no residual fume smell. Outstanding water repellency is the result. I imagine I will need to reapply it once each season from now on if I use it regularly.

My old cape treated with Fabric guard 303 was now functionally like new. But it was discolored from dirt which I could not scrub out, so I made a new cape out of black Sunbrella plus fabric. The black fabric was about 15% heavier. This was odd, because it was the same fabric other than the color. The cape ended up being about 23 oz, compared to 20 oz for the green cape. It seemed to have even greater water repellence than the green material. Giant beads of water just wanted to jump off the stuff. While the new green fabric had great water repellency, the black stuff took this to another level. The new black cape is quite a bit stiffer than the green one. It stands up by itself!

raincape 2

Nothing propping that stiff cape up! Looks like a giant wizard hat.

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It is a sturdy tent-like shelter against whatever form of falling water or debris I can pedal in; mist, rain, sleet, hail, etc. A reflective stripe was sewn in along the lower edge and along the collar. I like how sturdy it feels, and how it drapes. It is more than worth the extra weight.

Below, rolled up. Considering that it replaces a jacket, pants, and waterproof gloves, it’s not really that big or heavy.

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The next cape; Sunbrella supreme?

To take this cape to the next level would be to use Sunbrella supreme fabric, which is completely waterproof and has a flocked interior finish to the fabric. I am guessing that would make a cape which weighs about 26 oz. Periodic waterproofing treatments should not be necessary. The cape would not “breathe”, but air circulation under the cape would be excellent. It might even protect me from falling pianos and cougar attacks. Thats a project for another year.

END

Uncategorized

2 speed folder redux

New frame for the 2 speed folder

After riding my 2 speed folder around Mt Hood last year (168 miles, 10,500 ft climbing, 15 hours) it struck me that this versatile bike has a lot of potential, and worthy of a specific build of its own. The frame was left over from a previous frame upgrade project. I needed to bend the rear end of it from 135mm to the 110mm width (for the BMX type single speed hub) and I altered the fork to fit the narrower 74mm front hub. That got it on the road, but making a frame from the ground up would make a better, lighter, and smaller (when folded) bike.

The basic design for folding is the same as my previous portable bikes. This 2 speed version, discussed on a previous post  folds down to 28 x 19 x 11″ in one minute. I can put it in my lap on a bus. Makes a solid package that is easy to carry. The new version is one inch shorter when folded, and a pound or so lighter. The current one is about 24lbs and a bit overbuilt. Some tubes on the new one are of a smaller or of a thinner gauge.

This 2 speed format is simple, light, and is really all I need for day rides or commuting. There are 2 chainrings, and one 15 tooth freewheel cog, tensioned by a derailleur that is set to stay positioned below the one cog. The main gear (66″, 52×15) gets me pretty much everywhere. I use the lower gear (48″ 39×15) on longer, steeper hills. I shift it manually by deflecting the chain onto the smaller chainring with my foot, or guiding it into the bigger chainring manually with my finger (while riding usually). The upshift is not as easy; I can do it while riding by reaching down and guiding the chain. But it gets my fingers dirty so I tend to avoid shifting unless I really need to. But having the low gear makes climbing mountain passes so much easier. And there is always one more gear- walking. Sometimes thats a nice change of pace!

The old bike
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The old 2 speed folder at Buzzard Point, on my 168 mile day ride this past fall. Mt Hood in the background. Black tote bag hangs from brake levers and straps to head tube.
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The old one, at a bus stop, with tote bag. It’s way too easy to bail out of a  ride…
The New Bike
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Front bag hangs off brake levers, with a lower velcro strap as well. Smaller wheels make a bag like this possible. National forest service colors.
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At Council Crest in Portland. The fenders negate most of the weight saving I made.
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The most obvious change with this new bike is the triangulated seat post extender.
When folded up, this bike is a steel fortress. I can stand on it without bending/breaking anything. The exterior is mostly just blunt and durable.
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Folded up, it’s eleven inches wide. It can sit upright like this, or on its side as seen below. It’s 27 inches tall. I could throw it down a grassy hillside,watching it tumble down to the bottom, and it would probably still look like this. All the components are clamped together.
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19.5 inches tall on its side.
Traditional drop bars are what I wanted, and are a necessary part of the design. These are 42mm wide, and a perfect fit around the stuff above above the wheels. One side offers up a flat stable space to rest the folded bike on the ground.

A little video of how I fold it up. Takes about a minute. I made fenders for this one, because I live in Portland, OR, and it rains a lot here. That negated most of the weight savings I managed to accomplish, but it had to be done.

Framebuilders notes:
Here are the numbers and details of the new finished bike: 71 degrees head and seat tube, 42″ wheelbase, 17.5″ chain stay, 13mm fork offset, 10 3/8″ bottom bracket height with 40mm tires. The trail calculates out to 59mm, which is in the same range as big wheel bikes.  Stability with a capitol S.
Fork steerer is a 1″ threadless. Sellwood cycles machined the fork crown and head tube, thanks guys! Brakes are 500 reach side pulls, and frame is designed to have them contact rim at fullest pad extension. This will allow up to a 406/42 tire. A studded Schwalbe winter tire (406-42) fits with about 4mm clearance below the brake. Fenders are set at about 8mm clearance. The rear brake is on the chainstay, so the fender does not have to fit beneath it. For the front brake I made a part brazed to the fork which allows fender attachment on either side of it, so the fender does not need to fit under the brake. Tubing is mostly 4130 cromoly steel from Aircraft spruce, brass fillet brazed. Sleeved joints and most small stuff is silver-soldered. Almost all the tubing is .035″/0.9mm wall thickness. Exceptions are clamping tubes, .058; I try to keep them short. Seat tube is 1 1/4, 7″ long, a beefy .065 wall thing reamed to fit a 1 1/8 seat post extender. Fork blades, dropouts, and head tube are from Nova. Steerer is 1″ .058 cromo tube. The 1″ steerer commonly avaliable for bicycles typically has a thicker lower section, but with the reduced leverage of a shorter fork and my 160lbs I think I can get away with this .058 straight gauge tube (and have been doing so for years). One inch .035″ tubing is used for the truss-like frame part that connects the front and rear of the frame. The whole thing was built using straight edges, squares, and a drawing on a board. I don’t have any frame-building jigs like the pros use. Fork was jigged up on a piece of flat plywood, using squares, shims, and pencil lines.

I took an inch off it’s height by making the seat tube shorter. The rear triangle has a shallower triangulation, and the seat post extender is longer now, but I think it’s plenty strong. I could take another inch off the height because there is room to do that. Maybe for the next one… if that ever happens.
Steel as a frame building material
Why use steel? One reason is that steel is the only material I have the skill to work with. But it may be the ideal material for a bike that will see rough handling. Aluminum and carbon fiber for framing material are lighter, but have compromises I am not willing to accept. Carbon fiber abrades easily;  aluminum needs heat treatment after welding, and the tubes need to be bigger for similar strength. Neither material is a good choice for clamped slip-joints, which are all of my frame connections. Steel just makes sense for a project like this.
Weight considerations
I could drop the weight a little (probably less than a pound) by using the hardened thin wall steel bicycle frame tubes wherever possible, but it doesn’t seem worth the effort. The tubes would be more vulnerable to dents, and working with that stuff is harder for a hobbyist like me. Harder to cut, file, and cold-set, no thanks; straight up aircraft 4130 cromoly works just fine.
Titanium could save some weight on a bike like this, but there are many barriers to using it. It is costly, and many of the tube sizes I would need are unlikely to be available. My design uses a dozen different diameters and gauges of tubing. Also, I don’t have the machine shop to cut the stuff; let alone the equipment or skill to weld it. Using titanium may save a pound or so, but the cost benefit ratio is just not there for me.
Very expensive parts could pare the weight down maybe a couple pounds (carbon crank, titanium seatpost, spokes and bottom bracket, Chris King hubs, carbon rear derailleur). Going tubeless may lighten the wheels a bit. But I am okay with the final weight of 23 lbs (before fenders). If it ever got stolen, that would be a lot of $$$ down the drain. A lighter bike is nice while I am carrying it, but I spend very little time doing that. Most of my bike time is spent riding the thing, and I would hardly notice the difference then.
The old 2 speed was over-built, stronger in areas than necessary. I used some smaller and thinner gauge tubes with the new version, where possible. Ended up saving about 1.5 lbs over the older bike. But the new one still seems durable enough for endless miles on terrain so rough I can’t see because of my shaking eyeballs.
 I remember in the 1970s the general advice for bike buying was to tilt a bike to the side and push against the cranks with your foot to see how springy it was (it was better to do it when the salesperson wasn’t looking). A springy bike would have lightweight tubing and be more fun to ride, where a stiff feeling indicates a heavy bike with no flex. The Schwinn Paramount was springy, while the Varsity felt as unyielding as a concrete wall. My older folder, while not unyielding, was closer to the Varsity, while the new one seems springy enough. The new frame/fork/seat post extender with all its nuts and bolts on it weigh about 7 1/2 pounds, while the old one is 9 lbs. To compare, a good quality butted steel frame (with the steel fork) of a road bike may weigh 6 lbs. The extra weight of this folder is not that much of a compromise, considering this bikes impressive multi-modal capabilities.
Some construction pictures:
A new bike always starts with a fork, and there isn’t anything quite like this one out there.

The side pull brake bolts on to a collar that extends down from the tube which clamps onto the steerer.

backside of the fork crown.

The steerer has a cutout that nestles on top of the brake mount tube. This indexes the steerer-fork connection. Makes putting it together quicker, and if the clamp bolt ever failed, the fork would not rotate.

front of fork, with steerer inside it.
Some bike tubing, getting ready to come together.

Bike frame in progress. Folding chainstay done. The drawing for the bike is on the plywood in the background. The main tubes connecting the front and rear are 1″ diameter .035 wall.

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This picture shows the pivoting connection of the chainstays. It allows the rear wheel to fold under; the tire resting against the bottom bracket shell. I had to take this joint apart and re-do it, because it was almost one degree off, making the rear wheel crooked compared to the seat tube line when folded under. I suppose at the time I was not that focused on getting that important joint right. Fixing that was was possible to do with brass fillet brazing. I heated the brass, brushing it away and removed the tube. Then I mitered it correctly and brazed it in place again. If I had welded that joint it would not be possible to fix it.
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Now that’s a busy fork, finally finished except for paint. Lots of attachments going on. Brazed on pieces for securing bike parts and fenders are seen. A fender reach-around is visible, providing attachment points for front and rear fender halves while avoiding the caliper brake and the steerer clamping functions. 2 items to the right secure the fork to the side of the folded unit. A short fat tube on the left holds the handlebar stem. 2 small tubes behind the right (your right) fork blade connect the main boom to the inside of the folded bike. Near the dropouts are small curved tubes that accept the front and rear fender struts. Small pinch bolts will hold the struts in place.
frame components painted with one coat of rustoleum.
Principal frame components painted with one coat of rustoleum, against the drawing of the bike on a piece of plywood.
Some details
 
Non-standard components
It’s built with all standard  off the shelf stuff with the exception of the following: A Phil Wood 74mm 32 hole front hub is used. These may still be available from the company even though it is not seen in the catalogue. Rear hub is Shimano DX, with single 15 tooth freewheel cog. Old grand comp 500 reach brakes. Sun CR18 406 rims. 26.8 seatpost fits perfectly in the 1 1/8 .035 seatpost extender tube. MKS quick-release pedals.
 
The fenders
My first thought was to just do without them to save weight (and the considerable effort involved in making and fitting them). But that limits how much riding this bike will see by too much. Summer is the only season I can count on dry roads and small chance of rain. I don’t like getting sprayed by dirty road water, so I have to use fenders. I doubt I will ever take them off unless I move to a drier place.
These fenders are flat strips; 1/16″ thick cheap hardware store aluminum strips. I bent them around a paint can to give them a curve. While a curved and rounded fender will deflect the water better, there are advantages to a flat strip. Any objects stuck on the tire are more likely to be ejected out the side, rather than jamming somewhere in the fender space. Cleaning mud out of the fender is much easier; all it takes is a stick.
On the negative side, although I find them as effective as rounded fenders most of the time in keeping me dry, speeding thru standing water can cause spray to escape off the sides. I go slower thru standing water to keep from getting wet. Rounded fenders do a good job of keeping the bike clean; flat fenders less so. Another consideration is that flat fenders may need an extra strut because they are more flexible.
The front fender struts are attached to the fork with pinch bolts. If a stick gets trapped in the wheel, as it rotates it will push against the strut, bending it, and causing the fender to jam against the tire. This could stop the wheel if the strut had a no-slip connection (like an eyelet). But with a pinch bolt connection, the strut will pull away, and not jam the fender against the front wheel. Some over the counter bike shop fenders like the ESGE come with an emergency release built into the struts, in case this occurs.
Seat post extender
seat post extender, with seat post and saddle in it.
Seat post extender, with seat post in it at the upper end, and a wood dowel below.
The new triangulated seat post extender uses only .035 tubing throughout, and is much lighter. The main tube extends into the seat tube only about 2 inches. The rearward part of it is braced against the tube extending from the rear of the seat tube. There is a wooden dowel inside the bottom of it that contacts the ground when the bike is folded , keeping it upright.
The upper part of the seat post extender triangle is silver soldered (vs brass brazed) against the main 1/1/8 .035 tube, to reduce distortion, and allow good seat post fit. It provides a lot of strength where the end of the seat post is.  So far it seems quite stiff and is probably a better design than the previous, heavier, straight post.
 
Some folding attachment details
I’ll end this post with some photos of the little metal gizmos I made that allow me to fold the bike up quickly and securely. Nothing fancy here, just simple bits that work every time and don’t get in the way. I’ve make a lot of them over the years, trying to improve them with each version. They take a long time to make.
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The tube sticking out of the fork crown fits into the rear pivot opening. The fender wrap-around attachment is easily seen.
Rear wheel pivot; wheel folded under. Chain held in place by small rail tab. Rear brake clears chainring by a few millimeters.
A tube with an opening fits into this thing. The screw is turned once, it enters the opening, and the tube along with everything it’s attached to stays there. This secures the truss tubeset. If you understand all that, you are really paying attention.
Close up of the (green) seatpost extender in place. The main tube extends into the seat tube only a couple inches. The rear part braces itself against the rearward tube and aligns the assembly at the same time.
The (green) end of the handlebar stem indexes against the collar that sets the headset adjustment. When I put the handlebar stem in, it’s aligned with the wheel automatically.
That’s a nail with a coin brazed at the end that keeps the lower tubes together. When I put the main truss tubeset into its place, I tighten the clamps. But the lower tube can still pull out a couple millimeters under heavy pedaling because it is under tension (the upper tubes are in compression). So I drop this nail in it to lock it in place. This simple solution has worked great over many of my bikes for tens of thousands of miles.
Pin seen in place here. If I forget to drop the pin in, I can hear it jingle against the tube while riding.
Rear brake, and rear wheel hinge seen.
The 2 items clamped to the seat post hold the seat post assembly against the frame are seen here. Upper post fits into main rear wheel pivot. Lower device pivots up and is captured in its mating tube; then secured by one turn of a bolt.
Front fender. Struts held in place by set screws.
Rear fender. Mudflaps are from a plastic peanut butter container. I added another strut after this picture was taken.
 THE END
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bike ride to boulder lake

Boulder lake, a wilderness lake at the southeast flank of Mt hood, has been a spot I wanted to visit for a long time. I thought it would be a good out-and-back, or overnight ride. It’s a long days ride from Portland, but there is a bus that can give me a boost up from Sandy to Government Camp. I can ride the 20 or so miles to Sandy mostly on the springwater trail, get on the bus, and then get off at Government camp and ride the 15 miles from there to the lake.

The Mt Hood Express bus costs $2 and taking your bike along is free. There is a bike rack in the front that holds 2 bikes, and during the summer months there is a trailer on the back that holds a dozen bikes. Nevertheless, I folded my bike up and put it in the seat next to me because I can. On the one hour ride up the mountain, we stopped in Rhododendron, where we picked up about 6 mt bikers and their bikes. The idea is that you get the bus ride to Timberline and then ride down various trails all the way to Rhododendron, where you can stop at the Dairy Queen, and then do it all again.

The lake itself is in an unspoiled area of the forest that has never been logged or developed, where towering stands of fir, cedar, and hemlock dominate the area.  But it is not (yet) designated as wilderness. That means that you can ride your bike to the lake! I suggest you do so before it gets the wilderness designation it deserves.

Following my planned RideWithGPS loop route I got pizza and a caffeinated drink from the general store at Government Camp, and headed east on 26. The Old Barlow route at mile 3 is paved, and a nice 3 mile alternative to the busy highway. Arriving at Bennet Pass turnoff, I rode to the far end of the lot to start my ride up the dirt Bennet pass road.

The Bennett Pass snopark. With pit toilet. The dirt road is just beyond.
Narrow gravel road works it’s way along a ridgeline with expansive views of Mt Hood

 

This narrow cliffhanger of a road sees little use.
You need to be rather brave to drive your 4WD on it
The road becomes quite narrow and off camber at spots, with a yawning chasm off the side here and there. It is used as a ski route in the winter, and is also known as the “Terrible Traverse”.

 

Bonny Meadows campground. Trees, creek, tables. Nobody was there on this perfect late June weekday.
The start of the 2 1/2 mile trail from Bonny Meadows to the lake.
Yes, bikes are allowed, just not the ones with motors.
Windfall trees were very frequent.
I spent a lot of time lugging my bike over obstacles, or doing hike-a-bike over jumbles of rocks. I was able to ride perhaps half of the distance, which was all downhill. This trail is best with a bikepacking setup. Panniers would make it harder to heave the bike over the frequent windfall tree trunks.
I heard pikas (a small furry mammal related to rabbits) squeaking along the bouldery slope on the way to the lake. Check out this short documentary about them.
Boulder Lake
I was alone at the lake on this perfect weekday. It has about 8 primitive camp spots. I suppose it gets more use on the weekend. There is a dirt road leading to it, which ends at a trail on its east side. But the 1 mile of trail hiking reduces the numbers of those who would otherwise visit it.
Leaving the lake the next morning along the trail on the east side, I reached gravel road 4880. Turning right on 4881 (signed: To Hwy 35) pavement resumed for the rest of the route.
Mt Hood forest has lots of narrow paved roads like this one.

 

I took the bus from Government Camp back to Sandy, and I then rode home. The whole trip took 27 hours.

 

END
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A pocket respirator for bicyclists

Where I live in Portland, OR, the air is generally clear. There are very few days each year that I consider smoggy, although that’s coming from someone who grew up in the Los Angeles area in the 60s, where on one of the many bad smoggy days, you could only see about halfway down the block..

I want to show you a palm respirator I put together. You can make one too. Grab it when you hear the diesel school bus preparing to pass you, before the noxious cloud descends. But first you must read my diatribe.

 

We are all exposed to the concentrated toxic fumes of motor vehicles. Cars emit less fumes compared to years past. But when the engine is cold, or an old model car chugs its way past you, the air you are forced to breathe is about to get very unhealthy.

But the worst fumes come from diesel vehicles. You can hear it coming. It sounds like a bucket of bolts rattling, and evolves into an ear-splitting clattering with a whistling sound before it roars by. Next come the poisonous sooty fumes as it passes.

And when the clattering sound of a diesel approaching from behind tells me that I am about to get soaked in a cloud of carcinogenic particulates,  all I can do is try to get a few deep and relatively clean breaths before the deluge. After it passes and I can’t hold my breath any longer, I am forced to breathe the toxic cloud into my lungs. Somehow we just accept these sorts of toxic fumes in our public spaces, even though the technology for drastically reducing diesel exhaust can simply be bolted to the vehicle. It’s painful to see a crowd of children lingering about the school bus, breathing the carcinogenic soot deep into their developing lungs. Here is an interesting primer on diesel air pollution in Oregon.

I grew up in an era where walking or bicycling to school was the usual thing to do. It was the age where nobody used helmets. Or bicycle respirators. My grade school had a bike rack complex that could hold up to a hundred bikes! Even on rainy days there were dozens of bikes there. Today, that school has no bike racks. At all.

Meanwhile, to avoid the toxic fumes we must filter the air we breathe. While big and awkward, a face mask respirator is one option.

This stylish device will eliminate the fear you have of motor vehicle exhaust pipes.

It’s the perfect device for pedaling around Beiging, China, or where the air is uniformly terrible.  I have found the GVS elipse works the best for me when I work around a table saw or in dusty conditions. Low profile and very comfortable. I can pull it down and out of the way easily, as needed, but leaving it on for hours is not a problem.

There are bicycle-specific masks you will find on the internet. They tend to make you look like you are fleeing a hazmat incident, or are preparing to rob a bank. The smaller ones lack an exhalation valve, which is a problem. If you are going to the trouble of filtering your air, you want to do it right.

But I was looking for something to get me through the minute or two after a smoky diesel vehicle passes me until the air clears. So I attached a nasal CPAP nose mask to a single respiratory cartridge. 

A CPAP nasal mask
A nasal CPAP mask nose fitting, with a respirator filter attached. I just taped it on the back. CPAP masks are medical equipment normally sold by prescription. Maybe a medical equipment supplier will sell you or give you just the nose fitting. Or you can find one on craigslist. Or your uncle has a spare.

 

Taped to a single standard replacement respirator cartridge. A single cartridge is enough. Barely.

 

When that blue cloud is headed my way, I grab this unit and slap it on my nose, and hold it there every time I inhale. The air I breathe thru my nose then becomes sweet and clear! I exhale thru my mouth.

It’s a bit weird to do this and I have to hold it over my nose with each breath. Doing this leaves only one hand on the handlebar. I ease up on pedaling effort since I don’t want to breathe in thru my mouth. The key is having it accessible, like hanging on the handlebar, or in a top tube bag.
END
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Low traffic loop to the Aufderheide

A year ago, I took the Boltbus to Eugene, OR to ride the famous Aufderheide forest road (FS 19). It’s a very low traffic paved byway thru the Willamette forest, about 60 miles long. It’s reported to be one of the best bike rides you can experience anywhere. Most people get a shuttle to ride it, which eliminates the “transit” stages from Eugene on highways 126 and 58. I don’t like to drive a car to ride my bike if possible, so I had planned to ride those busy highways.

Even an experienced and fearless rider will find those highways to be especially evil. For much of their length, there is very little to no shoulder. And the truck and RV traffic can be relentless. Close calls happened often when I rode the highway loop.

Once off the hellhole highways 58 and 126, the Aufderheide itself was like a green carpet of trees and ferns. An occasional car would slowly go by. What a contrast.

So I wondered; could I enjoy this road; riding from Eugene, without using those highway arterials? I used ridewithgps.com to help me find out. Turns out there are other gravel/dirt forest road options that would make this possible. I mapped out a route that included a blizzard of forest roads snaking themselves over the mountains. I downloaded the route onto my phone (iphone 6), and headed down to Eugene.

I took the folder for this ride. However, Boltbus does accept whole unfolded, bikes in the luggage hold on a space available basis. No bike box needed, but someone may lay their bike on top of yours if space is tight.

 

In 8 minutes I reduced it to this. I put the black bag (which has the bike, tools, and water bottles) in the hold underneath the bus. The white bag (tent, pad, sleeping bag, clothes) and the small blue saddlebags (food and etcetera) went with me to my bus seat.

As a paying member of ridewithgps ($50/year) I get the voice guidance feature along with the offline map data. I followed the schoolmarm-like voice directions on the pleasant bikeways thru Eugene, and into Fall Creek. A harpsichord sound would alert me to turns, or if I went off course. The old lady was looking after me.

Soon enough the traffic petered out, and I found my self alone on a paved, forested road riding up a valley. Eventually, the road became gravel/dirt, and began to climb in earnest.

Still paved. Established campgrounds ahead.

 

Ferns, trees, birds chirping in a tranquil environment.

The start of gravel and dirt. Most of the route was easy to ride hard-pack.

Following Fall Creek up the hill.

 

I didn’t see anybody for the rest of the day from here on out. The gps app gave good directions and made complicated intersections easy. I did not need to look at my paper map. I used about 50% of the phone battery using the turn by turn directions over 8 hours.

 

My first camp site at hidden lake in an old growth forest. This is designated as a day use area (no toilet, fire pits, or tables) but it was a nice spot, nobody else was there, and I was too tired to move on.

A fire pit spot in a pull-out, seen on Military road.

After riding the Aufderheide road and stopping in Oakridge for food, I returned on Boundary/Military road, following the north side of the river and reservoir.  It was gravely and potholed, but almost devoid of traffic.

My second and final camp in the woods along the north side of Lookout Point reservoir.

The pavement started again at the end of forest service land. On the way back to Eugene there was a nice covered bridge….

 

The full route is here
 
It can downloaded as a GPX file, or simply added to your ridewithgps app.
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Making a chainguard

I had promised my wife a chainguard for her city bike way back when I was building it. Finally after a couple of years waiting, I put one together. No more need for pants clips!

I cut out a chain guard shape using tin snips from a sheet of .032″ thick sheet steel I had. You can see the dark blooms from where I attached tabs at the back with brass.

 

 

3 thin (less than 1mm) douglas fir strips were laminated together with gorilla glue to make this wood crook shape which will cover the top of the chain.

 

 

I bolted the wood strip in place with small brass bolts. The rings with rod sticking out the side will hold the guard in place at the front of the bike.
It is attached at the rear to the rack/fender braze on.
There was not much clearance between the chain and crank arm, so the placement of the guard had to be spot on. No adjustable option here. But it turned out very solid. I can’t imagine it will ever rattle or come loose.

 

END