Years ago, when my old columbus hat was starting to disintegrate, I knew there would be a long and difficult search for a replacement. My head is BIG, and few hats would fit it. And I was never was that happy about paying for a hat that gives free advertising to some business. And I find the bill on cycling caps is always rather small too. It was time to figure out how to make a hat that fits me well and has a bigger bill. I have made about 50 of these caps so far. For a person who does not sew much, is not an easy project at first. Your initial caps may not be that great but they quickly improve with practice. I am satisfied with mine now, and they take about 2 hours to make. They last about a year or so depending on use. Make lots, give them as gifts, it’s fun!
Rather than hunting for an online pattern, it made more sense to me to get the pattern from the old cap which I knew actually fit me. So I took it apart and had the perfect pattern right there. This 3 panel style would be easy to sew, compared to a more complicated 6 panel hat for instance. I had to figure out the steps of construction myself. There are probably other ways to put it together too. If nothing else, this type of project will help you appreciate the effort and complexity involved in making a garment.
|The old hat, disassembled.
I used the pieces as a template for making the new hats. With the visor, I drew an outline of the existing one, and then drew it a little bigger. The bills on traditional cycling caps are just too small.
From the top: visor, side panels, and center panel. The new templates are made of picture frame mat board. It’s a thick cardboard like material, durable and easy to cut. When I make a new hat, I just lay the templates down on the new fabric and run a pen along the edge, and cut along the lines. The center template is symmetric, but the side template is not. The curve is just a little bit more acute along the front. Thats how my head shaped the old columbus cap. There is a right and left side. After I trace the right side on the new fabric, I flip the template over to trace the left side. This detail is not needed in making a hat from a pattern you may find, but it makes my hat fit better.
|New cut fabric with yogurt container bill
We have lots of light cotton material leftover from quilting projects. Some of the first ones I made used this bird pattern. The top and bottom of the visor fabric is a lightweight, black wool. The bill stiffener is cut from a 32oz plastic yogurt container. The container is just big enough for a generous sized lightweight bill. I set the orientation using the natural curve of the plastic, but get it mostly flattened out with an iron, set on low. If an excessive curve returns (like from having it scrunched up in a pocket), I can always iron it flat again. Don’t iron the plastic directly; use a piece of fabric on top of it! It takes just a few minutes of ironing, and I let it cool down with a heavy book on top of it.
After tracing the visor line on the yogurt container, I cut it to its finished size. I make the ends rounded so they don’t cut into the fabric. Then I make a chalk line of the visor edge on the fabric visor material. Then I sew the 2 pieces of visor fabric together. I make 2 passes; making the stitching as close together as I can. One pass may be enough, but 2 will ensure it will not come apart at the front of the visor.
Next I trim the visor material away, very close to the stitches.
Now I turn it inside out, put the plastic visor stiffener inside. Then I pin it, so that the visor is positioned evenly and tight inside the pocket. Also I chalk a line on the inner edge to show where the inside of the visor is. Notice that there is about an inch of fabric past the edge of each side of the visor. You will need that extra fabric when you sew the cap together.
Now I sew the visor in the pocket. I go slow, trying to sew right along the edge of the plastic.
Then I trim the inner edge of the fabric so there is about an inch of material beyond the inner visor edge. This material will help absorb sweat.
Now I sew a strip of elastic band material along the inside (bottom) of the visor, slightly overlapping the visor stitches. I pull the elastic material slightly while sewing, to give it some built-in tension. I go very slow, doing a few stitches and stopping to reposition as needed.
Thats a 26″ long strip of elastic material. Fabric stores sell this by the foot or the roll. This is probably nylon, but cotton impregnated versions are available. About 4″ extends out from one side.
With the bird pattern, I need to sew 2 identical pieces together for the center panel section. Otherwise the birds would be upside down on one of the ends.
Now I am sewing the 3 hat panels together. I go slow, trying to make an even seam; about 3/16 inch.
Panels sewn, hat is taking shape!
Next I sew the edge of the cap. I roll the inside edge about 3/16 inch and sew all along the edge of the cap.
Now I need to sew the cap on to the visor. First I center the visor and cap. A chalk line along dead center of the visor, and a pen dot in the middle of the front edge of the middle cap strip. If it is not well centered, it will be obvious when all is done.
Starting from the center, I sew the cap on just slightly in front of the existing stitches.
It should look like this. I don’t want to see the visor stitching when I pull the material back.
Then I sewed the other side, going from the center to the edge. Cap and visor are connected now.
Now I sew the rest of the elastic band along the inside of the cap. I pull it a little as I sew, to add some built-in tension. You can see how the edges a bit puckered/wavy. This makes the cap gently hold on to my head.
At the back/inside of the cap, I fold 3 layers of elastic together into a length that is shorter than the rear of the middle panel. I pin it in place, and try the hat on. Fits perfect!
Now I sew the 3 layers along the pin line, on each side.
Now I stretch the material with the elastic and sew it down the middle. I do the same thing, 2 more times.
The goal is to have an even looking puckered area along the back of the cap, like this.
|Finished. It fits well and improves with use.
|A variety of hats from my current collection